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An ideal tour with rocks & ice: the Hoher Angelus
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...more tours in the Ortler Group:
- Tschenglser Hochwand



If you want to get ready for a tour to the Ortler or the Königsspitze, the Hoher Angelus is apart from from the neighbouring Vertainspitze an ideal preparation, as it combines some easy rock climbing, ascending and crossing steep (40°) snow/ice fields and glacier contact on the normal route. If you want to avoid the Zayferner and the rock fall from the Vertainspitze N-wall, you should choose for the ascent as well as for descent the Reinstadlerweg via the NW-ridge. This route will require a little more climbing (I-II) and an exhausting ascent on the steep snow field leading to the top, but is objectively rather safe for groups of two or if you want to climb the Angelus on your own.

Photos: The begin of the Reinstadlerweg, N-face of the Vertainspitze seen from the Angelus, On the snowfield below the summit
Rating: +++++ ascent: 850m Start: Düsseldorfer Hütte, 2.721m
Destination: Hoher Angelus, 3.521m
Difficulty: med, PD- Alpine descent: 850m End: Düsseldorfer Hütte Walking Time: total 6,0 hours, 0,75h to the intersection normal route and Reinstadlerweg, 0,5h to the first step of the NW-ridge, 1h to the snow field, 0,75h to the top. Descent 2,5h.

Directions:

From the hut walk further into the valley, direction NE and then E, over numerous moraines. The trail is well marked with sign posts and yellow-red markings. Below the foothills of the NW-ridge you'll arrive at the intersection normal route (via Angelusscharte) and Reinstadlerweg (NW-ridge). The Reinstadlerweg is also marked red-yellow and takes you over with some easy climbing to the snow field, which is ascend to the very right, next to the rocks. If you walk to far on the left side, i.e. cross it to early, you'll be in substantial danger to drop a couple of hundred metres to the Zayferner if you slip. After reaching the summit plateau, walk straight N along the rocky S-summit to the top at 3.521m.
Descend on the same way and be careful not to slip. When you arrived at the descending line next to the rocks right at the upper part of the NW-ridge, you can try a controlled sliding on your bottom if the snow conditions allow it.
Photo: Overview of the routes to the Angelus with Reinstadlerweg (orange) and normal route (blue) via Angelusscharte
Classification: med, distance 10km. Depending on conditions, crampons and ice axe are required.
Base: Düsseldorfer Hütte (seasonal)
Marking: excellent, well marked trail, Reinstadler route yellow-red

Maps:

e.g. Tabacco Map No.8 Gruppo Ortles/Cevedale (1:25.000)
Map of the tour (1:25.000) 71k

Travel Season:

summer till early autumn.

Notes:

If you started early enough, this tour can be combined with a climb of the Vertainspitze. Descend from the Hoher Angelus S into the Angelusscharte and from there to the Laaser Ferner (crevasses!), which is crossed just below the south wall of the Vertain on the Walterweg. At the big pole, climb towards the E-ridge, which you have to follow to the highest point. Descend as you like, preferably on the same way as you ascended. All other descends will require prolonged glacier contact (normal route via Rosimjoch) and/or more serious climbs (IV-, NW-ridge of Vertain). Ask at the Düsseldorfer Hütte for further information.
Links: interesting collection of information on the Ortler Group at summitpost.com by marco979

last revision: Monday, August 11, 2003 copyright www.therucksack.net